Presents:
Circular
Logic De-Mystifying Main & Rod
Bearings
Engine Reliability is #1
!! An engine failure = zero
HP
Many race tuners make the mistake of sacrificing
reliability for more power. The reasoning is that since race engines
get rebuilt a lot, a sacrifice of some long term reliability is a
fair trade off for increased horsepower. This is a natural
conclusion.
My philosophy about race engines is completely
different. My number one priority has
always been that rock solid reliability comes first, while increased
power always comes second. Another way of saying this is: anything
that will cause a reliability problem or power loss at a later time,
is also a reliability problem or power loss right now. It's
only a matter of degrees.
My goal as an race engine tuner was
to help my customers (who didn't have nearly the same financial
re$ource$ as
the factory teams) win an unusually high percentage of races and
especially championships, without any rebuilds. In order to do that,
the engines still had to be fast for the last race of the championship
!!
When my customers won races and championships, an amazing
thing happened -- they started to attract sponsors, and their
financial resources greatly improved !! But, we still stuck to the
original plan, and kept "reliability without rebuilds" as our first
priority.
While it's true that factory race teams
rebuild their engines after every race, during my career as an
engine builder, many of my customers noticed that 1/2 way through
the season after their engine was originally built, they could still
easily pass factory riders on the
straightaway. This has happened many times with many different
riders and many different brands of motorcycles, and there are
reasons for it ...
What I did was to study ways to improve
reliability over what's considered to be normal engine wear in
production vehicles. The result of this research is a great benefit
to street riders and car drivers who want better than normal
reliability and vehicle longevity.
In order to
determine how to minimize engine wear, it's important to first study
the true causes of it. In racing, this understanding can make
the difference between a race win or a zero horsepower failure
parked by the side of the track.
On the street, it can
mean the difference between 100,000 miles / 160,000 km of high
maintenance or 200,000 miles+ / 320,000 km+ of trouble free
use in a car.
(Note: Motorcycle engines usually wear
out much sooner, mostly due to an easily avoidable problem which
will be explained on this page.)
In this article I'm going to show you something in
an engine which is so fragile, that it can be easily destroyed by
the friction from a wimpy piece of paper towel.
Most likely,
that will now seem unbelievable, which is in
keeping with almost everything else on Power
News...
Paper Towel
!!
Note: this issue contains a lot of
photos and graphics. Many of the smaller photos are "clickable" so
that you can view the full sized version. The problems with this is
that if your browser is maxxed out on graphic memory, then all of
the graphics on this page have to re-load again when you use your
back button to return to it. If you know how to clear out your
temporary internet files, that's one solution, otherwise, it's even
easier to just do this:
Click on the photo with the right
mouse button. When the gray menu box comes up, select "Open in
New Window". When you want to return to this page after viewing the
photo, just close the large photo's browser window. (This works with
most popular browsers ... but there probably are
exceptions.)
. .
This Website is The
Most Informative Tech Site On The Web
Hi MotoMan.
It's not fair to tease us with a list
of upcoming articles that look so interesting. I want to read them
now. This is the most interesting and informative tech site on the web. Keep up the good work.
~Damian (Australia)
Hi Damian !!
This issue is about one of the
most widely misunderstood topics in engineering, so it was harder to
write than some of the past ones -- plus it required many diagrams,
animations and photos to visually illustrate the
concepts.
Thanks for your support, I think you'll find that
it was worth the wait !!
Sincerely, ~MotoMan
The Ratio of
719 to 1
Hi
MotoMan,
Interesting (Break-In Secrets) article.
I bought a new W650
parallel twin Kawasaki three years ago. I had read of an Australian
race car tuner who developed a running -in strategy similar to
yours. His was to start the brand new motor, warm it enough to be
safe, get it into third (or some gear where the load was high but
the speed not silly) and then nail it to the red line and allow it
to come down to idle before repeating ten more times, making a total
of eleven. Taking my heart into my mouth, I did this with my brand
new twin.
About 1000 miles
later, I ran it on a dyno, and it posted 51 bhp...not too bad for a
street, long stroke 670cc parallel twin. I belong to an enthusiasts
group and typical horse power levels for motors run in by the
manufacturers methods run from 41 to 44
bhp ...
Says it all
really... I have one of the most powerful
machines out of all the 720 members!
I'm glad someone else is
prepared to put it on the line!
~
Jon UK
Hi Jon
!!
Yes, that's a huge difference !! The key is to warm the
new engine up, then run it hard. Many people have thought that since
the vehicles are ran this way at the factory, they are already
broken-in. As you've found out that's not true, since each of the
other 719 bikes were also run hard at the factory. That only
starts the process, and as you now know, it's up to the
consumer to achieve the ideal ring seal.
Before you tested
the hard break-in concept, it would have been reasonable to say that
41 - 44 Hp is the standard of "full power" for the Kawasaki W650.
From this limited perspective, everyone would be
happy.
But, since your engine is delivering its true
potential, your bike has become the actual standard of what "full
power" really is. The new (big picture)
perspective now becomes: 719 engines
haven't developed full power. That's a
big paradigm shift.
That paradigm shift is the reason so
many people are now discovering Power News. Congratulations, and
thanks very much for your support
!!
Sincerely, ~MotoMan
P.S. To the Australian race car tuner: My
"hat's off" to you !!
She's Learning Fast
...
Hi Motoman,
I am a 21 year old female who has never had any
interest in motorcycles. In fact, I even hate driving cars and do so
about once a year (or less). However, I decided to buy a motorcycle
and to hell with my narrow-mindedness. I’ve been reading
motorcycle-related material on the web all day, but I am totally
lost. I know nothing, and I mean NOTHING about motorcycles. They all
look the same, I have no idea how they work (or any engine for that
matter), and it is a wonder how anyone actually manages to drive
them. All the abbreviations and codes are a complete mystery to me.
Also, some sites contradict each other – adding
to my confusion.
I read all of your
newsletters because—well--they're fun to read, and after a
while I found that I understand about 35% of the technical stuff.
This is very encouraging. I understand, of
course, that yours is the wrong site for a beginner to learn the
basics, but I was hoping you could help me.
I'm
not stupid, just not-so-mechanically-inclined, and I could use all
the help I can get.
Self consciously yours, ~Ilana
Hi Ilana !!
Thanks for your comments,
it's very encouraging for me to read them !!
Even if
you never plan on working on cars or bikes, understanding how they
really work will save you a lot of money, whether you're buying a
new or used vehicle. You'll also gain valuable insight into how to
dramatically increase your engine's life ... without even getting
out any wrenches !! That's why I think that Power News is the best place to learn the basics about
engines.
As a bonus, it will help you avoid being
ripped off at the mechanic's -- something that happens to a lot of
men too, although we don't like to admit it. ;)
The only thing I would add is that if
you get a new bike and you want to break it in right, I'd suggest
having an experienced rider do it ... running a motorcycle hard is
not my recommendation for a new rider
!!
Sincerely, ~MotoMan
The Challenge: After reading this
issue, I will guarantee that Ilana will have a better
understanding of how engines wear than most experts, including many
Factory Race Team tuners !!
Investigative Journalism of Journalism Now we're going to examine how and why the perception of
"expert" status in the media can so easily fool the general
public ... as well as most engineers, and even professional
tuners at the top (factory) level of competition !!
The #1 (unwritten) rule of
journalism: Never Upset The Advertisers
The #1 rule of
science: Always Consider Alternate Explanations Even if it means having to rethink what we
already knew.
"They couldn't all be saying it if it
wasn't correct."
We have a natural tendency to
automatically trust the "official" media.
Another common
perception is that when a particular bit of info is repeated in
multiple sources, that fact alone proves that the info is
true.
As many have noted, my conclusions about most tech
topics haven't at all matched up with the information written by
other magazine tech writers. The difference is, Power News goes
beyond written ideas by comparing those ideas against
actual physical observation and testing. This is just a basic principle of good
science.
Because of the difference in conclusions, the
info presented here has been heavily debated and often sharply
criticized on hundreds of motorsports discussion forums !!
I
encourage readers to post the Power News articles on discussion forums and
let everybody Rip 'em
up& Tear
'em apart ... ... because whether this info
is right or wrong, sooner or later some logic
will begin to surface !!
Isn't that the way
things should be ??
Thinking outside of the
box is usually associated with creativity, and doing things in a new
and improved way. (Right side of the
brain.)
But, the left (Logic) side of the brain can be seriously
limited by in the box thinking. Some can't see the
possibility that there might be another, even more logical
explanation for things, and this limitation can be easily
exploited.
Try this perceptual
test:
Without measuring them, can you see
which of the 2 red lines is
physically longer ... the top one or the bottom one ??
Before you look at the answer below, double
check it one more time, (but don't measure them yet
!!) . . . . . . . . . . .
Surprise
!!
These are the same 2 red lines, all I did was
to remove the distracting elements that symbolize
depth of field.
Amazing isn't it
??
Without measuring them, can you see
if there is a difference in their lengths ??
. . . . . . . . . . .
It may have seemed impossible when you first
looked at the original picture, but it's true
...
the bottom line was
actually longer the whole time
!!
With the addition of the
parallel lines, it's easy to
see.
It Was Our Perception That Was
Fooled, Not Our Eyes !!
These things are called
optical illusions, but they should really be called Perceptual Illusions, because the problem isn't
with our eyes. The symbols created by the converging lines tricks
our brain into taking a mental short-cut,
and we interpret the visual information
incorrectly.
Observation, in the form of actually
measuring the difference confirms the illusion. (Please don't take
my word for it, measure the lines in the original picture for
yourself ... this is important !!)
Of course, we aren't
stupid for being tricked by perceptual illusions, it's a normal
thing !! But, notice that once you became aware of the
perceptual problem, it became easier to see that the top line
is at least not as long in the original picture, as it seemed the
first time you saw it. When you become
aware of a particular perceptual problem, you're less likely to be
tricked by it the next time.
Ironically, We Often Learn To Take Mental
Short-Cuts In School !!
In school, most of the
information we read is in textbooks, which are automatically assumed
to be 100% correct. This effectively trains us from an early age to
read for one just thing ... the memorization of facts. Once out of
school, as long as information seems prestigious, it never occurs to
most people that it should be questioned or
analyzed.
Thinking is much more than just memorizing
and repeating facts, but unfortunately, most formal educational
systems measure and reward their students only according to their
ability to memorize and repeat information. That's good, but
it's not actually thinking.
This substitute for thinking usually becomes a lifelong habit --
a habit which invites perceptual problems !! Taking mental
short-cuts severely limits our ability for rational thought.
What Does This All Have To Do With Engines
??
In this issue we're going to examine 2 articles
which have been cited as intelligent and sane break-in information,
especially as they pertain to main and rod bearings. One was written
by the most well known tech writer in the US motorcycle magazine
business, and both have quoted famous factory team race tuners as
their proof. Expert status and
prestige make it extremely difficult to focus on the
logic.
The problem is, these articles (and
others like them in the auto world) have been uncritically read and
successfully memorized. The facts contained in them have been in
turn passed on to millions of people. As far as I know, these facts
have never been questioned in a widely read
publication.
Warning: These articles have been endorsed
by many with a high level of education in science and mechanical
engineering, and many highly trained professional mechanics
!! Most experts agree that these
articles contain solid, scientifically sound
information.
The Next
Door Neighbor Critical Reading Technique
A quick
read of these articles won't reveal any problems, but a careful read
will reveal lots. The amazing thing is, you don't even have to know
that much about engines to notice some of the problems, if you use
my critical reading technique.
This technique is simple in
concept, but it takes practice before it becomes easy to do
consistently. The trick is to remove two of the most powerful
perception distorting symbols -- expert status
and prestige ! This makes it easier to consistently
perceive reality using logic outside of school ... where it counts
in the real world.
So, when you read these 2 articles,
pretend that they weren't written by
famous, well respected tech writers and published in 2 well
established, widely read magazines.
Instead, pretend
they were written by ...
... your next door neighbor on a piece of scrap paper
!
No Disrespect
!!
This technique isn't meant to disrespect the
magazines, the authors or the quoted tuners. The idea of critical
reading isn't to criticize people, it's to critically examine the
ideas. (I suggest using the next door neighbor reading technique
with my writing, as well as everything else you read
!!)
My personal opinion is that Kevin Cameron writes
the most interesting tech articles, and I'm a big fan of his
articles dealing with the nostalgia and the old days of racing. But,
that doesn't automatically mean that all of his technical
information is correct.
(Note: when you click on the links, these articles will open up
in a new window.)
Here's the first article. It was featured
in the 1995 Sportbike Annual and it's entitled "It's New,
It's Pristine, How Long Do You Have To Baby It ?" : http://www.dezmo.com/breakin.html
The second article is an excerpt which was featured in the Feb.
1991 issue of Motorcyclist magazine and it's entitled "Give It
A Break-In".
1) I hope these articles stay
on the internet for the future readers of this page, but because of possible copyright issues, the links to
these articles may become unavailable. (Under fair use copyright laws, it is only legal to
quote parts of an article for evaluation purposes, so I'm not going
to be posting these entire articles on this site.)
This Power News article will concern the
bearings only. In future issues, we will be referring back to both
of these break-in articles on the topics of ring sealing and other
aspects of their information. For this reason, I suggest either
printing them out, or saving the text of these 2 articles as a
document on your computer for future reference, in case the links
disappear.
2) Some people haven't noticed any difference
between my break-in method and the method described in these
articles.
Although these
articles recommend a slightly "harder" break-in than the owner's
manuals do, I'm saying that
an immediate hard break-in is required for the exceptional
ring sealing benefit, and as long as the engine is warmed up first,
this won't cause any damage; whereas they are recommending
first running gently for a while before running moderately hard to
avoid severe damage. The problem is that this completely
misses the exceptional ring sealing benefit, which is the whole
point of my break-in procedure. The
time frame and the damage warnings make these 2 articles the total
opposite of Break-In Secrets. This is why I will be
referring to them as "easy break-in" articles, so there's no
confusion as to the difference. Many people
have tried to "mix" the 2 break-in ideas by first doing an easy
initial break-in, ("just to be safe") and then after a while
switching to my method. They've been disappointed when they found
that there wasn't a significant power gain, and many have decided
that they might as well have followed the owner's manual. If you
understand what just happened, you'll realize that what they really
did, was exactly what is described in the easy break-in articles
!! The method described in those
articles will produce nearly the same results as an owner's manual
break-in.
Once the
engine has some easy initial mileage on it, it may help a little bit
to run it hard. It's definitely better late than never, but it's not
going to make the remarkable difference that so many people are now
discovering.
The reasons for this as well as my
explanation for how rings seal will be illustrated in future
articles with diagrams and animations.
Today's article
will address the widespread misunderstanding about how bearings
work, as well as the "severe damage" question as it pertains to
bearings during new engine break-in.
The Problem With Non-Critical Reading
...
This comment was
posted on a popular motorsports forum by a degreed mechanical engineer in regards to plain
bearings and why they require a long, gentle break
in:
"The new bearings are
shedding their surface layers as they become intimate with the
journals." If our "next door neighbor"
had written the above comment, someone would have challenged it.
Because of this person's expert credentials, the debate
process just stopped cold. For another variation
of the "expert phenomenon." Here are 2 different comments on 2
different forums about Break-In Secrets VS How Long
Do You Have To Baby It :
#1:
" I ran across an article on the subject
by Kevin Cameron. I like his articles because he always seems to
know what he is talking about, and because he provides meaningful
technical explanations as opposed to just leaving the reader to
wonder why this and why that. "
#2: " I think Cameron (one
of the most respected motorcycle engineers) and Muzzy (one of the
most respected motorcycle builders/tuners) take top honors out of
everything posted in this entire thread. It's up to you who you want
to believe but I'll continue listen to the most educated ones.
"
Here's a 3rd common variation of
the "expert phenomenon", posted about the Break-In
Secrets article VS the owner's manual on yet another motorsports
forum:
"Why haven't
you read your owner's manual? Can't you read? Take it easy for at
least 500 miles. The engineers who actually designed your bike know
best, everything else should be considered snake oil.* * Note: "Snake Oil" is a
slang term usually associated with unscientific and unethical
marketing.
At this
point, a good question would be... do the engineers who actually
design the vehicles know things that they aren't telling us in the
owner's manuals ??
Do Ball
Bearings Require Break In ??
A ball bearing assembly
The Ball Bearing Manufacturers Polish Their
Balls.
Even in this low-resolution photo, you can
easily see the reflection of the camera lens. .
Ball bearings
are among the most closely dimensioned parts in the world of
manufacturing.
Ball roundness and size as well as surface
finish are held to a micro inch
specification.
1 micro inch = 1/1,000,000th
... ... one-millionth of an inch !!
The races
that the balls run in are finished to this level as
well.
I'll admit, I can't think of any reason
that they should require break-in.
A typical ball bearing
assembly used on the transmission shaft.
The wheel
bearings used in motorcycles are of the same basic
design.
Turbochargers This has particular significance for
turbo cars.
The consequences of an easy break-in for a turbo
vehicle can be even more serious than in a naturally aspirated
vehicle.
One of the justifications for an easy break-in with
a turbo vehicle is that the ball bearings in the turbo unit need to be
gently broken in. Does anyone know a reason as to why this should be true
? I'd like to discuss this topic in a future issue.
How Do Plain Bearings Work
??
A main bearing (left)
and rod bearing (right). They just can't wait to get to work !!
Before I took
apart my first engine, I imagined that the bearing itself was some sort of
anti-friction device. This incorrect idea came from the more familiar ball
bearing -- in which the rolling balls themselves do
function as an anti-friction device. I had formed the wrong mental picture.
Instead, it helps to think of plain bearings as a sleeve or
an insert.
How Do Plain Bearings Fit, And Stay In Place
?
Rod Bearings:
The tab on the bearing insert fits
into the notch in the rod. This locates the bearing in
the center of its housing.
When the rod cap installed, the
complete bearing is formed. In an actual engine assembly, these 2
halves are connected onto the crankshaft journal.
(The word
"journal" means the crankshaft's running surface for the
bearings.)
The main bearings are located in the crankcase
with the same tab / notch system.
Main Bearings:
The picture below
may look intimidating if you're not familiar with engines.
It
makes it a lot easier to think of the 2 crankcase halves as in the
same way that the 2 halves of the rod assembly go
together.
As you look at this picture, you'll
see that there are really only 4 different parts to the main bearing
arrangement: the crank, the bearings, and the 2 cases which
form the main bearings' housing.
(There
are many other engine parts missing here -- this is to make it
easier to see only the main bearings and the crankshaft,
and how they fit together.)
Just like the rod
bearings, the main bearing halves go together to form a complete
bearing shell which surrounds the crankshaft journals. . . .
Here's how the rod connects to the
crankshaft journal. The rod on the left is unassembled with the cap
and nuts. The rod on the right is bolted in
place.
Notice that those pistons
had an excellent ring seal.
Bearing "Crush"
...
The outside diameter of the 2 bearing
shells are slightly larger than the housing they fit into. This creates an
interference or press fit, which is known as "bearing crush". When the
assembly is bolted together, the bearings are forced outward to give a
positive contact with the connecting rod, or in the case of main bearings,
the crankcase block.
Note: this picture isn't
visually accurate, it's more to illustrate the conceptual idea. As
you can see, before the bearings are installed, the bearing shells
are wider than they are high. This is because the bearings
also have a spring effect, which makes them press into
the bearing housing.
The point is that once the bearings
are installed into their housing, the dimension "A" of the
bearings is slightly larger than the dimension "B" of the big end of
the connecting rod. (This is also true of the main bearings and
the housing formed by the crankcase.)
This picture of the rod's lower cap illustrates
the crush concept. If you look closely, you can see that the end of
the bearing insert is sticking up above the rod cap
slightly.
I purposely pushed it up a little more than it is
in actual reality, to make it easier to see in a photo.
The
bearing "sticks up" like this in both the upper and lower part of
the rod, and when the parts are bolted together, the bearing shells
are "pressed" in what's known as an interference fit.
In the
same way, the main bearings use crush to achieve a press fit within
the crankcase halves. .
By using the tab/notch system and crush, the
bearings are securely locked in place within their
housings.
The Bearing
Surface
The main and rod bearings work in a similar way.
One exception is that the main bearings have holes in them, and an
oil channel machined down the middle. This is how the oil gets into
the plain bearing system which will be explained later on this
page.
In some engines, some of the main bearings don't
have oiling holes. The reasons for this are outside of the scope of
this article, but the short answer is that there's just a slightly
different oiling path. Even in those engines, the other main
bearings have holes in the like the one shown here, and that is how
the oil is introduced into the system.
In the majority
of late model motorcycle engines, all of the main bearings have
oiling holes, like the one pictured here. .
The running surface of the rod bearing is over the
entire width of its surface, while the main bearing's running
surface is only on the 2 outer sections indicated by the
arrows.
(The oil channel in the middle is below the running
surface.)
How Does A Plain Bearing
Reduce Friction ?
In use, the bearing
itself doesn't have any friction reducing characteristics. Rather, the
system uses the unique properties of liquid (oil) as the
anti-friction "device":
In this animation, the oil clearances have been
greatly increased to give a clear view of the oil film's dynamically
changing dimensions between the bearing and the crank
journal.
(The average normal oil clearances for main and
rod bearings are around .002 inch / .05mm.)
The bearing
itself doesn't "do" anything. The crank journal surface floats above
the bearing surface, on the oil film.
The crank journal is dark gray, oil is dark
yellow, and bearing is light gray.
As the engine rotates, the crank journal goes
"off-center" within the surrounding oil supply. Although it can move
within the dimensions of the volume of oil, the crank journal
surface itself never contacts the bearing.
Both main and
rod bearings work this way.
Bearings are fed pressurized oil.
This pressure is critical, because although the crank can push the
oil aside, it's the pressure which keeps the crank from breaking
through the oil film to contact the bearing. .
At first appearance, this
system seems like it shouldn't work.
It works only for
one reason: Oil, like all liquids,
is non-compressible !* .
* In theory, even solids
are compressible, as in Black Holes in outer space. These are forces which
are far beyond the ones we're dealing with in engines. Under laboratory
conditions, liquids are slightly compressible. The pressurized fluid loses
only a micro percentage of its volume when it is squeezed with
extraordinary pressures.
In real world applications, this has no
measurable effect on hydraulic systems. This is why, although from a
strictly theoretical scientific viewpoint, liquids are considered
compressible -- in engineering applications, liquids are
considered non-compressible.
The Power of Hydraulics
1 I had the opportunity to test
the power of hydraulics by digging gigantic rocks at the Arctic
Circle Raceway in Norway. I was amazed at how easy it was to learn to
operate this huge machine, and the ease with which I could toss around
mega-ton boulders, as if they were little pebbles.
Of course, the
power to do this comes from an engine, but the reason it's possible to
lift such a heavy load, is that the power is transmitted through the
hydraulic fluid which in turn lifts the shovel. The shovel would just collapse under the heavy load,
were it not for the non-compressible qualities of
liquids.
Many big name race teams
just put some stickers on the race vehicle and consider that
"promotion".
This is by far the most impressive sponsor promotion
effort I've ever seen:
Team Komatsu-Yamaha Norway By letting the race fans try out the
equipment, 2 Time Norwegian National Roadracing Champion
Dag-Steinar Sundby and his team have done an outstanding job
of promoting their sponsor !! MotoMan "Digs"
Komatsu !!! The thing that
really impresses me about Komatsu is their commitment to long term
reliability.
If you're in the
market for heavy equipment, please consider the purchase of
a Komatsu !! .
The Power of Hydraulics
2
Hydraulic Lock --
this happens when an engine's cylinder is filled with gasoline from a
leaking carburetor float valve. When one attempts to start such an engine,
the non-compressible fluid stops the piston. If the battery is strong
enough, the connecting rod will transform from a useful engine part, into
an interesting "S" shaped sculpture worthy of an abstract art gallery
!! Liquid makes an incredibly strong
bearing.
The Ingenious Design Concept
of Plain Bearings
Plain bearings are designed with the
idea that, should failure occur, the expensive crankshaft will be
unharmed, with the damage limited to the inexpensive bearing
insert.
In actual practice, this is true to a point, but
if the engine is allowed to continue to run much after the bearing is
damaged, the crank will soon be damaged as well.
Embed-ability The babbit layer is about as soft as lead, and
it can be easily scratched by harder metal. This is by far the softest
metal in an engine.
The purpose of this soft metal
layer is so that any metal fragments in the oil supply will embed
into the soft bearing, leaving the expensive crank
unharmed.
The
copper layer is harder, making it an ideal 2nd layer material. It's
hard enough to support the babbit layer, while it's soft enough to
allow it to "give" when a bit of metal is embedded in the babbit
layer.
The steel layer gives the bearing its strength and
"spring" so it can be installed with a slight interference or press
fit into its housing.
Because of the embed-ability
requirement, the bearings are fragile. If there is crank journal to
bearing contact while the engine is running, the
soft babbit layer is easily damaged.
3 Metal
Layers
The copper
layer looks thicker than it really is ... because I cut the bearing
at an angle to make it easier to see the layers in the
photo.
Also note the magenta-red paint marking on the side
edge. This is to indicate the bearing's thickness. Bearings
typically come in 4 or 5 sizes to accommodate slight differences in
crankshaft journal diameter.
Note: The size differences
for motorcycle engines are extremely small, approximately
.00016 inch / .004 mm for each size increment. Some car bearings
have a much larger range of sizes. This difference has caused much
confusion in the motorcycle world, and this subject will be covered
in the next issue. .
It Really Works
...
This bearing surface has very effectively
"absorbed" some metal bits. As you can see, there wasn't any scoring
around the bearing. If the metal surface of the bearing were hard,
any debris in the system would ultimately score the
expensive crank.
The only drawback to this design
concept is that as more and more bits are embedded, the bearing
surface immediately surrounding the embedded bit raises, and
tightens up.
Eventually, if there is enough loose metal
or grit embedded into the bearing surface, the overall
clearance can get tight enough to cause metal to metal contact with
the crank journal, resulting in bearing
failure. .
Embedded Metal Bits In A
Main Bearing.
Main
Bearings
The main bearings' oil comes from the crankcase, and
enters into the bearing shells, through the 3 pressurized oil
delivery holes in each bearing. (In the diagram, the 3 holes at the
top are marked, but there are also 3 more holes in the lower bearing
shell.)
Like the earlier animation, notice that as the crank
rotates, the journal is "off center" within the oil clearance. The
forces on the crankshaft cause the journal to displace oil within
the "container" formed between the journal and the bearing, but it
can't physically compress the pressurized oil.
(Again, the
oil clearance dimensions have been increased for illustration
purposes.)
After the oil flows between the bearings and the
journal, the next route of its path is into the hole represented in
the center of the crank journal. This hole leads the oil to its next
destination ...
Note: As mentioned earlier, in some engines just
one main bearing in the pair has oil delivery holes. .
The Oil Path Within The
Crank
. The oil
flows from the main journals marked "A",
to the rod journals marked "B", through
the passages drilled within the crank, (denoted with a red line).
The direction of oil
flow is indicated by the green
arrows.
This is a clever system,
because it isn't practical to have the rod bearings' oil supplied
from a static source the way the mains are, since the rods are
moving over a large area.
Another interesting thing about
this is how the passages are created. The crank can't originally be
made with internal connecting holes, so they have to be drilled from
the outside. The outside of these holes then have to be plugged, to
form a closed system. The hole is plugged with a ball, and then the
metal around it is peened over to keep the ball in place. The
balls are marked "C".
(As
you can see in the photo, the inspectors at the factory double check
and then paint the ball areas to signify that they've been securely
peened over. A loose ball would be a disaster !!) .
Oil
Passages Within The Crankshaft:
With the connecting rods removed,
it's easier to see how the oil flows.
The oil enters the
crank through the main journal holes "A",
then exits the crank from the rod journal holes "B".
Because of the direction of
oil flow, if there is any debris inside the crankshaft oil passages,
the main bearings aren't affected, but the rod
bearings will be damaged.
Because they get their oil supply after the main
bearings, this is one reason rod bearings are the weakest link in this
system. If there's a loss of oil pressure, the end of the system is
affected first, so the rod bearings are the first to suffer from oil
starvation.
A second reason is
that the force of the power stroke bears down on just 1 rod bearing, while
the same force is always shared by at least 2 main bearings. In a 4
cylinder engine the load is spread over 5 or 6 main bearings (depending on
whether it's a center cam chain tensioner or end cam chain tensioner
design.) This stress on the rod bearing, combined with being the last to
receive oil, are 2 problems that the main bearings don't
have.
Rod
Bearings
Whereas
the oil supplying the main bearings went from the cases into the
main bearing / journal interface and into the crankshaft -- the rod
bearings' oil supply direction is just the opposite. It comes from
inside the crank and is forced outward between the rod bearing and
journal.
The oil delivery is in reverse, but the action of
the journal "trying" to squeeze out the excess oil, and meeting an
uncompressible pressurized oil film is the same as it is with the
main bearings. As you can see, there are no holes in the rod
bearings, since the oil is fed from within the
crank.
The occasional exception to this is some engines
which have a very small oil hole going through the bearing and the
upper rod where the beam meets the upper bearing housing of the rod.
The purpose is to spray a jet of oil up to lubricate the cylinder
walls, pistons and rings. ..
Where Does The Oil Go Next
?
If you've never dug into an engine this "deep", you
may be surprised to find that the connecting rod can
be moved from side to side quite a lot !!
At first it seems so wrong
!! .
It does seem "wrong" but, this rod side clearance is
required, because it's the only "escape route" for the
oil on most engines.
It's also the way the
piston and rings are lubricated.
The pressurized oil leaves
the rod bearing - crank journal interface through this clearance,
and the oil sprays up to lubricate the piston, rings and cylinders.
The oil then drains down to return to the sump at the bottom of the
engine, to start the cycle over again.
Note: as
mentioned above some engines use an oil hole, but these designs also
have some rod side clearance.
Here, I've pushed the rod to one side so it's
easy to see the clearance between the rod and crank cheek.
On
most motorcycles, this clearance is .004-.006 inch /
.1mm-.15mm.
Larger motorcycles and car engines often
have a bit more rod side clearance, but the
principle is the same. .
" Break-In Secrets
Part 5 "
Do Plain Bearings Require
Break-In ??
What is Logic ?? You've probably heard people
say "that doesn't seem logical", which is a misuse of what logic actually
is. Logic isn't a feeling; and a statement all by itself is neither
logical or illogical (although it can be true or false). True logic is the
process of drawing a conclusion from premises, and it is set up kind of
like a math equation. Unless all of the premises are
correct, the conclusion will be flawed.
What is Circular Logic ??
Here's a common
example: Premise 1: Most mainstream
motorsports magazines warn that you shouldn't run
new engines hard right away, because that will cause serious
damage.
Premise 2: Power News says
exactly 100% the opposite of that.
Conclusion: Therefore, Power News is snake oil.
The problem with this argument is that it contains an assumed
premise, which is, that these magazines know the full
story and contain accurate technical information.
In order
for the conclusion of a logical argument to be accurate, the
premises must be proven to be true first.
One premise is
absolutely true, and that's #2
!!
Let's examine premise #1...
1/2 The
Story What if a newspaper reported
that a man jumped from the 100th floor of an apartment building, and
miraculously escaped the ordeal with only a sprained ankle
??
But, what if the newspaper reporter didn't know that the
man only landed on the balcony, 3 feet below the window he jumped
out of ?? .
The other 1/2 of the story
drastically changes the meaning of the
entirestory.
Quote from the
Give It A Break article:
"... it's likely
that a new bike was run at the factory ..."
This statement is very misleading,
because it really downplays what actually happens.
Power News readers are
learning the other 1/2 of the story ... the part which has
been kept well hidden for over 20 years:
This is like the famous
scene in the Wizard of Oz when Dorothy got to see how it all works
... except this is real:
Those
Disturbing Pixels of Debunkification
The bikes aren't just
"likely" to be run at the factory, in fact ...
The factory technicians give
all new bikes a Full Throttle Max RPM Blast through the gears !!
The magazine tech
writers and the factory race team bosses and mechanics quoted in
these articles don't know about this aspect of the
manufacturing process !!!
It might seem
unfair to say this, since these break-in articles appeared back in 1991
& 1995. But a close look at the new
bike in the photo above confirms that it's an early '80's model !! I'm not
exactly sure when the factories started doing this, but it's safe
to say that this reality predates these 2 articles by a very long
time (at least 8 to 12 years respectively.) My estimate is that some factories were doing this as long ago as
the mid 1970's ... can anyone confirm ??
When we examine the
information purely from the basis of mechanical logic, while keeping
in mind the info that the writers of the numerous easy break-in
articles don't know about ...
... it becomes possible to
understand the real logic (reasons) behind the modern easy break-in
concept.
There are many levels of
logic. Once one level is seen and acknowledged, only then is
it possible to examine logic on the next level higher. (Seeing
the bigger picture.)
5 More Reader
Reports:
New Nissan Cars
Fully Blasted: A number of years ago I was in Japan working
for Nissan Canada and we were invited to visit an assembly plant. You
should see the final road test they submit the cars to on a dyno. The
driver floors the accelerator and takes vital
statistics from dials for about 3 minutes. If
they pass this test they are OK. The Japanese must be
laughing when they read the lines about engine break in. All of the motor vehicle industry insiders
have been laughing at this situation ... for a long
time.
New
Ford Cars Fully
Blasted: I once took a tour of the Ford plant. The engines
are all dyno tested and screamed to top RPMs at full throttle. That's when
I knew the easy break-in engine damage warnings weren't true. The funny
thing is that they checked my bag for cameras or video recorders -- that's
not allowed !! Why all the concern
about video & camera equipment ?? If there's nothing to hide, why is
there an effort to hide it ??
New
Honda Motorcycles Fully
Blasted: At Honda at Marysville Ohio the new bikes
are strapped to a dyno wheel and run to red line and at over 100
mph before it is crated up and shipped. Didn't they read those easy break-in articles ?? After all,
they helped pay for them.
Diesel Blastage @
Ford: I can only speak for 1.8 Diesel for Ford
as that's what I'm assembly engineer for, but once the engine is built its
conveyered into a cell and then started. After idling for 30 secs (with a
lot of auto checks on oil pressure, coolant temp etc etc) it's then taken
up in 500rpm increments every 10 secs until the grand finale of 10 secs at
max no load speed. I still cringed this afternoon when
I walked past them screaming (as much as a diesel can) away. Of course, every so often half way through this
a con rod will emerge from the side of the block but this is what the test
is for, to show up any manufacturing defects. Screaming
Diesels !!
New Aprilia
Motorcycles Fully Blasted: Every bike that leaves the
Aprilia factory (and every other OEM factory) goes through each gear to the {rev} limiter, no bull,
its part of quality control.
Bikes used to come in without the high
speed indicator reset, quite often the bikes would have 175mph on the dash. I saw a Factory {model type} with
182mph on it, and I know I sure didn't do it.
{Note: the 2 bracketed comments are my additions ~MotoMan}
I wonder how
the guy whose job it is to full throttle redline new Aprilias all day
breaks-in his family car ?? Does he follow the owner's
manual and drive real nice and easy for 600-1,000 miles, to avoid
severe engine damage ??
MotoMan
"Gee Whiz ... you
can't really violate the logic of the easy break-in articles any
more outrageously than that."
. . . . .
.
.
When you think about it
... The first running at the
factory really is the hardest running most engines will
ever receive.
Except
for the small percentage of cars and bikes that are used for
racing, the vast majority of vehicles on the road will never get the
sustained full throttle, maximum RPM use that
they experience in their
very first time
running.
Let that
idea soak in for a little while ... it's a real brain twister !
The Denial Mechanism Known
As: CD Some in the
motorsports press, have literally "scared people out of their minds" that
engine damage occurs from running a brand new vehicle hard.
Seeing all of this information now may cause the
readers of those magazines to experience an extreme perceptual
illusion. No one likes to think that
they've been fooled.
Like an
optical illusion, even the most rational, highly educated
and otherwise intelligent people will be able to see the
words and pictures, yet still have their perception distorted by
CD. CD = Cognitive Dissonance. This effect completely blocks disturbing
new information from entering the consciousness. Just as if it
never existed.
Some will immediately get over it and see the easy
break-in deception for what it is. But, there's no question that others
will come up with a powerful rationalization in order to keep on believing
the myth.
Whatever the rationale is, it would have to also
ignore the concept of cause and effect, so it won't be a
scientifically sound reason.
Here's one possibility:
. At the factories, there are magical Dweeb-a-zoids who send a re-integrating
micro-particle beam, which fully protects the engines from damage,
while they get pinned to the max and blasted into the stratospheric
part of their rev band !!
Alas, the Magical Dweeb-a-zoids vanish the
moment the vehicle leaves the factory. .
Those Rarely
Seen Factory Dweeb-a-zoids
. But ...
Once
you take ownership of the vehicle, the "still scientifically
valid reasons" contained in the easy break-in articles will
instantaneously go back into retro-effect !!
You see
.... that's because for the next 600 - 1,000 miles, your
new engine will be haunted by ... The Evil Hobgoblins !! .
The Evil
Hobgoblins
Newly Revised Easy Break-In
Warning: Heavy throttle and
high revs in the absence of the magical Dweeb-a-zoids will cause serious engine damage. The Evil Hobgoblins will make sure of that.
;)
To be fully convinced,
people have to really believe in an idea, not just mentally,
but in their heart. The statement below is effective
because it evokes the most powerful emotion of non-thinking, which
is of course: fear.
A Frozen Moment of Crystalline
Clarity
Quote from
the How Long Do You Have To Baby It article:
"
If the break-in begins at high RPM and heavy throttle, the process
may generate more heat and metal debris than the system can handle.
Then the result is destruction of contact
surfaces in some parts of the engine. "
(Hey wait a minute ... that precisely
describes what the factories have been doing for over 20 years !!)
(Hey wait another
minute ... that precisely describes what
is recommended in the Break-In Secrets article
also !!) .
It's Crystal Clear that the
manufacturers actions show that they don't agree with the
destruction statement. Of course they agree publicly, in an "official" sort
of way ... but Power News isn't about fake "official" stuff.
Many people have asked me:
"Why didn't you just reveal what goes on at the
manufacturers in the Break-In Secrets article, since
it would have made it much easier to believe ??" Because this isn't about believing things, it's about
understanding things.
This page is all about a higher
level of thinking ... so in a way, revealing what happens at
the factories is taking a mental short-cut.
Just knowing what they do, doesn't give us an understanding
as to why blasting a new engine doesn't cause any
damage whatsoever.
If we fully understand how bearings
work, then we will come to the same conclusions that the
factory engineers did regarding bearings and break-in, without even
knowing the other 1/2 of the story or having to personally visit
a factory !!
In other words:
Is it possible to just
"think out" the bearing part of the break-in secret without the luxury
of knowing this hidden information ??
Yes
!! I figured out that the manufacturers blast
the new vehicles 12 years before I heard about it from eyewitnesses or had
photographic evidence of it. This is what science is all about -- thinking
things out using logic and observation, without having to be told by
someone who's widely perceived as an expert. It's not about me being the perceived expert ... it's
about you being a real expert !!
Quote from the How
Long Do You Have To Baby It article: " ... bearings spin without
metal-to-metal contact, on full oil films "
(Note: in the article's context, this means "after
the break-in process is complete." )
Oil, like all liquids, is non-compressible !
This quote brings up 3
questions: 1) Do the bearings spin with metal-to-metal
contact in a running engine ??
2) Do they spin on anything
less than full oil films in a running engine ???
3) Come to think about it .... do main & rod bearings even
spin???? Not to be confused with the term "spun
bearing" which means a ruined bearing.
Do the main
bearings spin (rotate 360 degrees continuously) ??
No, the main bearings don't spin ... they don't move at all
!!
. The main bearings
are in a fixed position in the crankcase, the main bearings
don't rotate.
Although it's not possible to see the lower
main bearing shell in these pictures, I've painted the area they are
fixed to green, to make their non-moving
status more apparent.
(In a running engine, the upper case
would be in place, which forms the other half of the complete
bearing surrounding the crankshaft.) .
The main bearings simply support the crankshaft
as it spins continuously within the bearings, but the
bearings themselves don't move.
Do the rod
bearings spin (rotate 360 degrees continuously) ??
No, not all all. In fact a close
examination reveals that for nearly 50% of the time, rod bearings rotate
...
... backwards !!
. . . . . .. . . . . .
. Backwards
??
Here the rod bearings are green -- notice that they only rotate about 15 degrees,
or 1/24th of a turn, pause and then rotate about 1/24th of a
turn backwards in the opposite direction
!!
The process is repeated for a total of 4 back and forth
movements per each full revolution of the
crankshaft.
Remember that since the bearings are in a fixed position,
they move along with the rod. If it's hard to see that the bearing rotates
backwards, try concentrating only on the change in the
angle of the connecting rod as you watch the green
bearings.
The crankshaft's rod journal is colored
red. This makes it easier to see that the crankshaft and
its journal are all one solid part which rotates continuously in
one direction within the rod
bearings. .
Practice making
more complex visual mental images !!
The next (much more
challenging) step is to visualize what an actual engine looks like as the
rod rotates backwards. Make the picture in your mind complete with metal,
oil, and especially the movement of the parts. Eventually you'll find that
it becomes much easier to make mental pictures even to the point of
simultaneously visualizing the incredibly large number of complex events
happening in a running engine !!
People who are
capable of doing this have an immense advantage, but it takes
practice. This is the secret to your becoming an exceptional engineer /
mechanic !!
Why Is It
Important To Understand The Concept Of The Rod Bearings' Backward
Motion ??
Because
we can now examine one of the least understood reasons why the rod bearings are more failure prone than the main
bearings are.
This is a more challenging concept to understand,
because you've really got to study the still pictures and make a
mental image of 2 moving things at once (Right side of the brain) while at the same time you have to think
about what's logically happening (Left side of the brain):
As the piston descends from the top to 1/2 its
stroke, the crank is rotating clockwise while the rod bearings are
rotating counterclockwise. The speed differential between the
bearing and the journal is dramatically increased !!
(To
see which way the rod bearing rotates, it helps to focus on the line
that represents the split between the upper half of the rod and its
lower half.)
Increased Surface Speed
Differential
As the piston descends from 1/2 its stroke to the
bottom, the crank is rotating clockwise while the rod bearings are
now also rotating clockwise. The speed differential between the
bearing and the journal is now dramatically decreased !!
Decreased Surface Speed
Differential
As the piston ascends from the bottom to 1/2 its
stroke, the crank is rotating clockwise while the rod bearings are
also rotating clockwise. The speed differential between the bearing
and the journal is the same as the frame above -- decreased !!
(Note: decreased in
relation to the first frame.)
Decreased Surface Speed
Differential
As the piston ascends from 1/2 its stroke back to
the top, the crank is rotating clockwise while the rod bearings are
now rotating counterclockwise. The speed differential between the
bearing and the journal is again dramatically increased !!
Increased Surface Speed
Differential
. So, while the main
bearing to journal speed is constant at a given RPM, the rod bearing
to journal speed is actually much faster during 2 key
portions of the engine cycle at the same RPM !! .
Why Do Rod Bearings Usually Fail First
??
Now we have 3 reasons why rod bearings are more
stressed than main bearings. If a main bearing and a rod bearing had
identical friction problems, the rod bearing will fail sooner than
the main bearing would.
To summarize:
1)
Rod bearing frictional problems are magnified because of the higher speed
differential during the 2 "backwards acceleration" points shown
above.
2) Oil delivery gets to the rod bearings last. If there's a
loss of oil pressure, or an obstruction in the oil delivery path from the
main to the rod bearings, the rod bearings are the first to suffer from
oil starvation.
3) The force of the power
stroke bears down on just 1 rod bearing, while the same amount of force is
always shared by at least 2 main bearings.
This Next Concept Really Rocks
!!
The 2 times that the bearing's speed in relation to
the journal surface is increased, also happen to be the 2 most
stressful points in the 4 stroke cycle. These 2 points are the first half
of the power down stroke, and the last half of the exhaust
upstroke. It's important to understand
this, because it makes reason #1 above even more
serious.
The forces involved in the power down stroke are
obvious, but can you see why the last half of the exhaust upstroke is such
a highly stressful point in the 4 stroke engine cycle ??
Why ?? The last
part of the exhaust stroke is stressful, because there is nothing
to "cushion" the G- forces of the weight of the piston and
rod !!
. The common
misconception is that the piston pushes out high pressure exhaust
gasses. Remember from the 8 Phase Motor article, that during
the physical exhaust stroke the piston doesn't push out high pressure exhaust gasses
!!
By the time the piston is going up, most of
the exhaust pressure has already been released. In fact in a really
well tuned engine, the exiting exhaust gasses create a low pressure
condition in the cylinder which actually pulls up the
piston.
For these reasons, the connecting rod
experiences extremely high inertial loads at the very top of the
exhaust stroke. The weight of the piston and rod assembly is
unopposed, and the G- force yanks up on the rod cap ... Hard
!!
At high RPMs, this loading stretches the rod and
pulls the big end out of round causing it to squeeze inwards across
the rod's horizontal parting line. (Dimension "B" in the photo to
the right.) This stretching and return to normal shape happens on
every 4th stroke of the engine cycle during high RPM
!!
It's incredible to think about -- At
15,000 RPMs, that's 125 times a second !!
If "wearing in"
the bearings during running to make them fit properly were a
realistic option, the bearing's inner diameter could just be worn in
to the correct dimensions during "break-in".
When early
auto racers first experimented with higher RPMs, the rod bores
stretched which caused the previously untouched horizontal portions
of the bearings to wear.
You can imagine the result. As
soon as the babbit metal wore, it spread across the bearing, heated
up and caused massive engine failures. Many early tuners got scared of high RPMs, and with good
reason. .
The
last half of the exhaust upstroke, from the picture on the left to
the one on the right is the number 1 stress point in the 4 stroke
engine cycle !!
In this photo, the image of the rod
on the right has been modified in Photoshop to illustrate the effect
high RPM stretch has on the big end bearing's
bore.
When dimension "A" is increased, dimension "B" becomes
smaller.
( Note: the dimensions have been
greatly increased to make it easier to see this effect.)
The Solution: Strange but true... "Oval Bearings" !!
Since metal to metal bearing contact in a running
engine quickly leads to failure, bearings are designed so that even at
maximum RPM, there is never any metal to metal contact.
It
was found that a slightly oval bearing inner diameter is required to
compensate for the high RPM stretch of the bearing housing ...
. The bearing wall is
thinner near the ends of the bearing shell than it is in the center
section. This section corresponds with the horizontal split between
the full circle formed by the 2 bearing shells, providing extra
clearance, so that when the rod bore pinches inwards, there is no
contact with the crankshaft journal during the high RPM exhaust
upstroke.
A ball is required to measure the thickness of a
curved surface like a plain bearing. While this won't give the
absolute thickness of the bearing, it shows the comparative
difference between the 2 measurements. (For the absolute thickness,
just measure the ball and subtract the difference.)
When
using a micrometer, it's important not to get any heat from your
fingers into the micrometer, or the part being measured !! The heat
will expand the part or the micrometer which will make the
measurements inaccurate. ..
. Different
engines have different amounts of "bearing ovality", which is
matched to the engine's RPM and the weight of its piston and
rod assembly.
In the case of the Yamaha R6, the
difference is quite a lot -- approximately .0017 inch. Since
the clearance is on both sides, this means that there is a
total of .0034 extra horizontal oil clearance to allow for a
rod-ovalling 15,000 + RPM !!
If you have a
micrometer, please don't take my word for it. By all means,
buy a rod bearing for your favorite vehicle
and measure this difference for yourself !!
Since the rod transmits the upward G-
forces to the crankshaft, the main bearings also have the same
"oval" design. I'm suggesting using a rod bearing for this
experiment only because it's much easier to get the ball in
place for the measurement, since rod bearings have no
center oil channel.
It can
be really tricky to keep the ball from rolling away as you
place it between the bearing and the micrometer
!! .
Why is it so important to measure (test)
things for yourself ??
The (symbolic) power of
prestige has a very powerful effect on preventing new information
from being known. (One famous tuner teaches the unquestioning next
person who becomes the next famous tuner who teaches the
unquestioning next person etc...)
This might not seem
like a fair statement, since these easy break-in articles appeared
in the 1990's, and this bearing is from a 2000 model. Believe it or
not, the oval bearing solution was developed in the auto racing
scene
...
... during the 1950's !! In
this case, the conditions of the experiment began to change way back
when Elvis was the man on the radio. 50 years later, many
scientifically educated engineers, mechanics and race tuners still
haven't observed this change.
The most important
concept of science isn't memorizing facts, it's observation of
phenomena.
Throughout history, most of the
really big innovations and inventions were made by people who
rejected the idea that people should be trained to think a certain
way.
In the
1950's, thousands of professionally trained automotive engineers
thought that engines couldn't be revved any higher. Guess who found
the solution ?? A "non-trained engineer" who was able to think
freely !! Had everyone just "Stayed In The Box", the 15,000 RPM
plain bearing production engines that we now take for granted --
wouldn't be possible !!
By saying this, I don't mean to imply
that formal engineering training is unimportant -- it's very
important. But, it's equally important to keep an open mind, as
that's the key to the development of innovative
technology.
Now, 15,000 RPM might sound impressive, but for
2004, Suzuki's GSXR 600 revs to .... 16,200
RPM.
That's a production engine, and there's no
doubt that racers will push that limit even higher !! Of course, the
bearing design isn't the reason that the engine makes power
at such high RPMs -- that has to do with the tuning. There are also
other factors that make this ultra high RPM possible, (for example,
the engine uses lightweight titanium valves.)
But, the
bearing design which was developed in the '50's allows that
to happen without engine failure. With "round" bearings, the high
revving fun would all end in an instant.
Think about it:
Today's 16,200 RPM machines were made possible by a "non-trained
engineer" !! Have you ever felt like
you're "only one" who thinks something ?? I know that feeling well,
and I'm going to tell you this: Don't worry, you're
absolutely on the right track !!
The bearing solution was found "back in the old days", but
knowledge of this hasn't fully reached the mainstream. As a result,
the seriously out-dated idea still survives among many tuners and
engineers that new bearings don't have the right running tolerance,
and need to be gently worn in before they fit correctly.
By
carefully observing an engine and asking the right questions, we can
discover for ourselves that this idea doesn't at all match up with
actual observation.
There has been a long unbroken
chain of memorized facts. A
chain of misinformation can easily survive if no one in the chain
stops to think and ask questions. .
Quote from the How
Long Do You Have To Baby It article:
" ... firm part-throttle operation for a
period puts a load onbearings and other
parts, forcing their surfaces together so they can polish each other to a fine
fit.
" Quote from
the Give It A Break article: " ...a constant
load is not ideal for breaking in the bearing
tolerances."
Bearing Clearance Break-In ? Limited
observation can "prove" that the above bearing statements are
"true" !!
Why is that ??
For those who
don't work on engines, it has to do with the perceived expert status of
the people saying it. This "expert phenomenon" also influences many
professionals, but another factor becomes involved for them. It has to do
with what I feel is the most common problem in science. The distinctly
unscientific method of not taking
an open minded, objective, thorough and personal observation of the
subject being studied. This has to
do with fear.
There are very few scientists who can be objective
when new ideas threaten their already preconceived ones. This has nothing
to do with how well they memorized scientific "facts" or the amount of
time spent in school. The most important skills of science aren't
currently being taught in school. It's all about honesty and the courage to have a favorite idea
found to be wrong. Decide to be completely honest with yourself
(objective), and you'll have the potential to be a better observer of
reality than many scientists.
Bearing
Comparison
The rod bearings from left to right
in the photo below are as follows:
1) Brand new, just unwrapped
from the package. 2) Blasted at the factory, and run hard on the street
for approximately 30 miles / 48 KM. 3) Raced for 1 season, constant
high RPMs for about 2,000 miles / 3220 KM. 4) Raced for 2 seasons (inc.
endurance races), constant high RPMs for about 6,000 miles / 9660
KM.
Except for the brand new one, all of these bearings came from
engines which were broken in according to the Break-In
Secrets article. .
. A casual look shows that, as the mileage
increases, bearing surfaces do appear to be getting polished to a
fine fit, or having their tolerances
broken-in.
This would immediately confirm what the
experts said. End of story. At this point, a careless observer might
say: "That's all I needed to see."
There's no question that the dull
gray metal is starting to look bright & shiny!!
But, a simple test and
observation reveals that:
It's only a coating
that's slowly wearing off during a certain condition !!
The
areas where the coating has worn off are revealing the
brighter colored babbit layer metal underneath, which exactly
mimics the metal polishing process -- in appearance only
!! ..
4 Yamaha R6
rod bearings with progressively increased
use:
#2:
Even after the MotoMan's "insane" break-in method, the coating has
been barely affected. (There are some small scratches on
it, but that didn't happen in the engine.)
#3: After a full
season of high RPM racing, most of the coating is still
there.
#4: Even after 2 full seasons of racing, the most
heavily used bearing still has much of its coating !!
What's really
surprising ...
... is that experts in both articles thought that new
engines are assembled with bearing clearances that are so tight,
that the words "fit" or "tolerance" are applicable.
What do you think would eventually happen if bearings,
(which possess the softest metal in an engine), are run
with less than the correct oil clearance ?? (Ka-Boom !!)
How much did the most
heavily used bearing's babbit layer actually wear ??
.. Here is the same
heavily used bearing (#4) pictured above. Its thickness is
being compared to a brand new bearing (just unwrapped from the package) of
the same size specification.
It turns out
that even after 6,000 miles /
9660 KM of constant acceleration and deceleration from
10,000 to 15,000 RPM, the bearing's measured thickness is
exactly the same as the new one !!
(The
thickness is the "fit" or "tolerance" described in the easy
break-in articles.)
Although these bearings came from a newer
engine, since I started building race engines in 1990, I've never
seen plain bearings with similar race mileage wear to the
point of a measurable difference from
new.
(There is one exception, and it affects a main
bearing of engines of a certain design, as you'll see later on this
page.)
As long as the engine is apart, it's a good idea to
replace all of the bearings, but it's really not necessary from
a clearance standpoint. .
Heavily Used Yamaha R6 Rod
Bearing
.
Brand New Yamaha R6 Rod
Bearing
And Now
...
It's Time For The "Paper Towel"
Experiment !! For less than $10, you can learn more than many
engine experts know about bearings ... .
The
shiny bearing in the photo on the right looks very "worn", but it's
never been in an engine ...
I just wiped it off with
a wimpy piece of Paper Towel !!
This coating isn't like most coatings. It's
incredibly easy to remove. I would describe it as a
powder.
Please
don't take my word for it, buy yourself a main or rod bearing from
your favorite vehicle and try this experiment at
home.
You won't believe how easily this coating can be
removed until you experience it for yourself
!! .
. " Presto " Like magic, in less than 5 seconds, the bearing was
"polished". Here you can see that when the very top
"layer" that gives the "unpolished" look is removed, the
metal underneath makes the bearing look
"polished."
This "layer" is now just residue on the
paper towel. .
Note: "destroying"
the coating doesn't damage the bearing !!
Many race engine builders wipe off the gray
coating with some paper towel before installing them, without any problems
whatsoever. (The coating isn't able to protect the babbit layer.) If
a wimpy piece of paper towel can wear off the coating this easily
...
Why doesn't
the coating immediately wear off, during the full throttle max RPM
blast at the factory ?? How can any of it possibly survive after
all that racing use ??
The answer to
this will be revealed in a moment. This will illustrate where the easy
break-in concept has been a total misinterpretation of the
evidence. This in turn has resulted in the widespread misunderstanding of
the causes of bearing wear, and engine wear in general.
How can we determine the
babbit layer thickness ??
Call Yamaha ??
Call a
motorcycle shop ??
Watch the Discovery Channel for a really long
time ??
Ask a Factory Race Team tuner ??
Read the easy
break-in articles ??
Experiment #2
Instead of
asking someone who may not know the correct answer ... Here's How To Find Out For Yourself:
. By using sandpaper,
and sanding down just until a consistent copper color is seen, we
can then measure the difference to determine the babbit layer
thickness !!
Of
course, destroying the babbit layer does destroy the
bearing.
(These bearings are
both of the same thickness specification.) .
The
bearing on the left is being sacrificed for the sake of science ...
it's not going to be used in an engine
!!
First, measure the bearing with the babbit layer
...
Next, measure the bearing with the babbit layer
removed ...
... then, subtract the difference.
If you own a micrometer, try this
experiment yourself !!
Be sure to clean all the grit
off the sanded bearing before measuring it. Also, be sure to let
it cool completely after it's been sanded, or the heat from
sanding will affect the measurement.
Yikes !! There's only .0006 of an inch of babbit before
copper is reached !!
(On some bearings, the
babbit layer thickness is even thinner -- .0005 in. / .0127 mm.)
Just How Thin Is .0006 inch / .015mm
??
. For this
demonstration, I chose a really thin thing that everyone can relate
to -- paper.
A standard sheet of paper is .004 inch /
.1mm.
That means that it takes slightly more
than 6 1/2 babbit layers to equal the thickness of 1 sheet
of paper !! .
Words and numbers are cool,
but it's way cooler to make a mental picture
!!
In this diagram, I've illustrated the exact
relationship between the 2 sizes as a percentage represented by
digital pixels:
The softest
metal in an engine, the babbit layer, is
only 15% as thick as a standard sheet of
paper !! . . . .
Oooooooo ....
.0006 inch/ .015mm isn't just "thin" -- it's
Super-Thin !!
. . Ladies and Gentlemen, The super thin / ultra soft babbit layer can't withstand
any metal-to-metal contact while the engine is
running.
Remember what the
experts said about bearings being "broken-in"
??
Well here's the truth ...
If your "bearings are polishing to a fine fit" while you're on the road ... or if you're
"breaking in the bearing tolerances" while you're on the road ... or if your "bearings are shedding layers to become intimate with the
crank journal" while you're on the
road ... You'll soon be getting
"intimate" with your dealership's parts department
!!
Forget what the experts
said. You're becoming the real
expert now :)
How Do Bearings Wear Then
??
The next series of photos are from a heavily used
race engine. It was correctly assembled by another engine builder, who
didn't remove the coating before the bearings were installed.
While
this engine design may not be exactly like the one in your vehicle, this
will demonstrate how plain bearings wear in any vehicle.
Knowing
that the very top "layer" is really just an easily removable coating, and
while keeping in mind all of the qualities of plain bearings, we can use
the information to determine how and when bearings wear the way a good
detective does. Unemotional,
deductive (logical) reasoning !!
Let's see if a
pattern develops...
. Clue #1 There
are 10 main bearing 1/2 shells, and 8 rod bearing 1/2 shells for a
total of 18 in most modern 4 cylinder engines. The first thing that
becomes immediately apparent in inspecting this engine, is that by
far the most worn bearing out of all 18, is the main bearing
indicated by the "X". This is the only bearing in this engine which
has worn into the babbit layer.
(Note: this bearing is
located on the right side of the engine. The view of the engine
below is upside down from the way the engine sits in the
bike.)
This is because in a side mounted cam chain tensioner
design, the cam chain is exerting a force which is
lifting the crankshaft upwards on just 1 end of the crank. ..
Note: this isn't a problem
specific to this model, I've inspected 100's of side mounted
cam chain tensioned engines from different brands and models,
and this same bearing always gets worn far
more than any of the others.
.
Here's a close up of the
bearing marked "X" in the photo on the left.
If
you take a close look at the large version, you'll see that
it's darker in the very middle of the worn area. It's actually
starting to wear into the copper layer. This bearing
definitely needs to be replaced !! ..
Why hasn't this
engine failed ?? Because the wear is only happening during a certain
condition. .
Which force on the crank is greater: the
upward lifting effect of the cam chain from the tensioner and the
valve springs ...
... or the downforce of the power stroke at
15,000 RPM ??
There's no comparison, the power downforce is a
much stronger force !!
Of course, during the power stroke,
the force is spread across 5 lower bearings, but realistically, if bearing
wear were a matter of the amount of throttle used (force) and RPM, then
the bottom bearings would be wearing much more than the one being damaged
by the upward pull of the cam chain.
The Cam Chain
Pull VS The 15,000 RPM Power
Downforce:
This photo shows an
even better view of the cam chain tensioned main bearing's excessive
wear (Left). It's really worn !!
For comparison,
one of the lower main bearings is on the right. This bearing
experiences the power downforce, yet it's not damaged at all
!!
When you use a wrench to turn an engine over with
the spark plugs removed, most of the resistance you're feeling is
coming from the valve springs. It's very easy to
do on this engine.
You'll also notice that this
resistance varies, (it feels "lumpy") depending on where the engine
is in its cycle as it's being rotated. The cam chain gets tensioned
the most at the peak of this resistance.
Now imagine
what the force would be like if you were able to hold onto a wrench
while this engine is running at 15,000 RPM.
That
comparison puts the forces involved into perspective
!! .
How do springs pull up on the crank
??
I sized this photo so that the valve springs in this
image are approximately "actual size":
When the engine is stopped, often 1 set of valve
springs are trying to push the cam forward. This force pulls up on
the cam chain, which in turn pulls up on the
crank. The amount of force they pull
up with, depends on the point at which the engine
stops.
The cam chain tensioner also contributes
a much smaller amount of upward force on the chain.
I
didn't have an R6 cam chain tensioner spring, but this CBR600f3
spring is about the same size, and it exerts approximately the same
force as the R6 spring does.
This image is also approximately "actual
size". As you can see by the wire diameter, this isn't a very
powerful spring. .
" Hold On A Minute, MotoMan
...
I once read in a
magazine article that the right side end main bearing wear is caused from
the motorcycle being leaned over on its kickstand. The oil drains away
from this end of the crankshaft, and the bearing is damaged on start-up.
What do you have to say about that ?? "
Yes, I've heard the
same thing, and most mechanics have automatically agreed with that
idea.
The only problem is ... it's not a correct diagnosis of the
problem.
Clue
#2
Thorvald Sæby
Now, as you can see,
Thorvald is a man who likes to win.
So, how
did he break the new engine in ??
Did he gurgle around
at part throttle like most of the other racers who were breaking-in
their new race engines that day ?? No
Way !! The engine was warmed up, and moments after the
picture on the right was taken, he was accelerating full throttle,
shifting at 14,500 RPM through all the gears at one of the fastest
tracks in the world ... Daytona !!
One of the most noticeable attributes of
winners, is that since they aren't influenced by "what
everyone else thinks", they don't follow the
crowd. .
The Race
Stand:
Jørgen Johnsen of
Oslo, Norway's Fast Bikes gets ready to remove the
race stand, while Team Yamaha Motor Norway's Thorvald Sæby gets ready to break-in the 2000
Mototune R6.
Although this is a
different racebike, the cam chain tensioned worn bearing shown in
the photos came from an engine which was always parked on a
race stand.
With a
race stand, the engine is always level when the bike is
parked.
The "kickstand problem" is
an an example of a mis-diagnosis of cause and effect.
Since the cam
chain is on the right side of the bike, this side gets tipped
up when the bike's on its kickstand which is on the left side
...
... and so the kickstand explanation "seems
logical".
By using scientific thinking and eliminating that
variable, one will discover that the same problem still
exists. Coincidentally, the
discontinuation of centerstands coincided with the use of the end cam
chain tensioner design.
Clue #3 Which force is greater, the weight of the crank, or the power
downstroke at 15,000 RPM ?? There's no comparison, the power downforce
is a much stronger force.
Hint 1: Main bearings have the same high RPM
"oval" non-contact protection design as rod bearings. The main
bearings' housings "oval" at high RPM also.
Hint 2: Gravity
is pulling the crank down when the engine isn't
running.
Hint 3: Sometimes there is less upward pull on the
cam chain, depending on what part of the engine cycle
the engine is at when it stops.
Why are the lower main bearings'
coatings only worn in the center, not at the end section
??
(That's curious.)
Clue #4
. There is no coating wear happening at
the "oval" high RPM pinch-in point at the ends
of the rod bearings either. .
That's because all of the wear is
happening... ...
during a certain condition !! .
It's True:
Plain bearings, when correctly installed, and with
proper oil clearance and pressure, don't wear once the engine is
running.
(While the engine is running, the bearings are
floating on an non-compressible oil
film.)
The wear all occurs at the
moment of start-up, after the engine has
sat, and the residual oil has drained off. This is the "certain condition"
!! It's not a
matter of the amount of force, but rather when the force is
being applied:
. When the engine is
at rest, the unpressurized oil is often squeezed out by the upward
pull of the cam chain. Again, this
depends on the point at which the engine
stops.
When that happens, the cam chain end bearing
looks like figure "A".
When the engine is first started after
it has sat for a while, there is a split second of rotation before
the oil pressure returns the journal to the normal relationship with
the bearing shown in figure "B".
The cam chain tensioned
bearing wears due to this momentary rotation when there is a lack of
oil between the 2 parts.
(Here again, the oil
clearances have been greatly increased to illustrate this
concept.) .
Figure "A" . . The camchain tensioned main bearing to
journal relationship when the engine is turned off.
Figure "B" . . The
camchain tensioned main bearing to journal relationship when the
engine is running.
Analysis
The main bearing
wear occurs when either the downward weight of the crank or the
upward pull of the cam chain has squeezed out the residual oil while
the engine is at rest.
Except for the cam chain tensioned one,
none of the other upper main bearings are wearing. This is because
they don't have any "oil squeezing" conditions while the engine is
stopped, and they aren't subjected to any serious force on start-up, only
at high RPM.
In the case of the rod
bearings, oil drain off is also responsible for the start up wear. With
the rods, there is another factor worth considering. Whenever the engine
is stopped, the residual oil drains off soonest from the rods that remain
above the middle of the stroke, and so more wear occurs on these rod
bearings. I've seen an equal amount of bearing coating wear on both sets
of rods in every 4 cylinder engine I've ever inspected. I suppose it's
possible that one set could always stop below the middle of the
stroke every time the engine is stopped ...
... and that would be
like winning the lottery and getting struck by lightning on the same
day. It's possible, but highly
improbable.
Even at redline RPM,
all of the bearings are protected by a full pressurized oil film. The fact that none of the 18 bearings'
coatings are worn into the "oval" section is more evidence of
this.
Unbelievable The
experts in these articles have confused start-up wear with "break-in
wear". If this page has caused
you to start wondering about the wisdom of automatically believing
experts, then you're on the "same page" as me. ;)
You can't prevent start-up
wear by breaking-in your engine "easy" ... The only way you can
prevent it is to never start the engine. That would kinda take all the fun out of things.
You've probably heard that the majority of engine
wear occurs as the engine is started.
(It's true.)
. Take The
Bearing Quiz !!
Removing the coating makes it difficult to see how
much a bearing has been used.
It's only wear to the babbit
layer that's a concern, because that will cause
problems.
. These 3 main
bearings have had their coatings wiped off with paper towel. This is
an extra large photo, so you can see the surfaces
close-up.
1 was heavily used (roadraced), 1 came out of a
brand new bike which was only blasted at the factory, and 1 is brand
new and was never used in an engine.
Can you identify the
bearings ?? The answer will be revealed in the next
issue. .
What happens if the bearings are tight
?? Will a hard break-in damage them ?? Absolutely ... Yes !!
But, it's important to understand that
even during an easy break-in, tight or incorrectly installed bearings will
be equally damaged !! A really tight bearing won't last long enough to be "broken-in", and a bearing
with minor tightness will develop into a major problem eventually,
regardless of how the engine is run.
Here's why:
2,000 RPM ...
Even with light throttle at a super-mellow 2,000 rpm,
the tight section will cause permanent damage to the ultra soft, ultra thin babbit layer from the mere
rotation of the crank journal. The
re-distributed metal can't escape, so it spreads over the
bearing creating new tight areas. This smearing
metal process generates a lot of heat, and the heat expansion and thermal distortion tightens the bearing
clearance even more -- and eventually prevents the formation of any oil
film. The amount of time this takes depends on how tight the bearing
is.
A tight bearing problem can only be solved by taking the
engine apart to correct the clearance.
Tight bearings are an extremely rare
occurrence with production machines. I've only seen one example
of this during my entire career as an engine builder ...
. Once upon a time in
Norway, a tiny plastic bit almost stopped ...
The Mighty Budweiser Yamaha R1 !! .
Brand New 2002
R1 Engine
During assembly at the factory, a nearly
invisible stray piece of plastic went unnoticed as it sat on
the main bearing saddle and the bearing
was installed on top of it. . The
seemingly insignificant naughty little bit lifted the bearing enough
that the crank wore through the babbit layer and was
starting to expose the copper layer.
This isn't
start-up wear, so there was friction being developed while
the engine was running. This causes thermal distortion (warpage) and
eventually, further damage.
But what
about: Oil, like all liquids, is
non-compressible ??
The physics haven't changed,
it's just that the "container" for the oil is no longer complete,
because part of its space is now being taken up by the
raised section of the bearing. .
. This
engine was starting to shed bearing layers to become intimate
with the crank journal while it was running
!!
Since this bike was just removed from
its crate and hadn't even been ridden yet, the damage occurred at
the factory during its initial run. I first got suspicious of a
problem when I smelled the faint odor of burnt oil as the crankcases
were opened.
Luckily, the soft metal bearing design concept
worked, and the crank was unharmed. Rather than replacing a $350
crank, I only had to replace a $7 bearing !! .
I'm going to pose a question here: What might
have happened if this engine had been purchased by a street rider
who carefully followed the owner's manual during break-in
??
The answer will reveal one of
the best reasons not to do an easy break-in.
It also
reveals one of the real reasons why the factories recommend
that you should run a new vehicle gently.
I'll discuss this
in the next issue.
Only A Matter Of
Time: Had this engine been raced without fixing this
problem, the extreme localized friction and the thermal
distortion that causes, could have eventually caused the babbit
layer to unravel.
The
Mighty Budweiser Yamaha R1 would have
been reduced to zero horsepower. A terrible situation
for the racer, engine builder, tuners, fans, and sponsors
!
The problem was fixed so that didn't happen, and
once we got to the track in Sweden, there was a very happy
ending to this story ... .
. 2001 Norwegian Champion André Løwen Knee on the floor in Sweden on the Budweiser
Yamaha R1
After finishing the first
qualifying session in 2nd position for the May, 2002
Superbike race at Anderstorp, Sweden -- here's what André had to say:
" MotoMan ... this is
the best race bike I've ever ridden. "
High velocity intake ports, fixed main bearing
problem, hard break-in ... ... plus lots more "out of the box"
tuning secrets yet to be revealed !! .
Ice Cold Bud !!
More and more people are discovering that a
hard break-in really does result in a lot more power. (But, there
has still been a feeling that there must be a trade-off of damage &
lower long term reliability.) Now, more and more people are discovering
why a hard break-in doesn't do any damage in a correctly set-up
engine. There is no
trade-off.
What if it turns out that an easy break-in
actually causes long term engine damage ... the very thing
the easy break-in article readers want to avoid ?? Stay Tuned !
It's
hard to imagine that truth can be so completely reversed.
The widespread presence of the "expert/prestige box" makes truth
reversal super easy to do !!
. 5 New Techniques For Thinking Outside of
the Box:
1) Use the next door neighbor
reading technique with everything you read -- you'll be
surprised at what happens. Your real-world intelligence will
skyrocket.
2) Don't allow experts to think for you.
Observe, test and measure things for yourself.
3)
Make mental still pictures to visualize reality.
4) When you've mastered #3, practice making mental moving
pictures.
5) Question everything, especially the most
widely assumed premises !! That's the key to forming truly
logical conclusions.
You've got
the Power, my friends !!!
3 Ways to
Minimize Your Engine's Wear !!
Tip
#1: What do most people do when
they start an engine ??
Turn the throttle up !!
It
seems logical to do this, but revving up an engine just
as it starts is the worst thing to do !! To minimize start-up wear, never start an engine with more RPM than is
absolutely necessary.
Very Important Note: this is a completely
different concept from warming the engine up before running it
hard. The reasons why insufficient warm up causes damage will
be covered in a future issue. Here I'm only referring to
the first moment of rotation, and 1 or 2 seconds after the
engine is started.
Tip #2: Even if you don't turn up the throttle on
start-up, the factory does it for you
...
Did you know that
most motorcycles are designed in a way which actually causes
their engines to wear out faster ?? When the "engineers who
design the bikes"* write the owner's manuals, besides teaching
millions of people to break it in easy, they also tell people
to use the choke to start the engine. * The more you learn about engines, the
more you'll realize that much of the "engine information" in
the owner's manuals wasn't written by the engineers and has
absolutely nothing to do with good
engineering. The "choke" on most bikes enrichens the
fuel/air mixture, but it also increases the engine speed on
start-up. The fast idle choke causes the cold engine to rev up
to 2,500 - 3,000rpms, which greatly increases start-up
wear.
Because of this, using the "choke" causes almost
all of the engine wear the bike will ever get !! Much
more than during any other running condition -- even when the
engine is at redline !!
If possible, don't use the choke at all. If
your engine absolutely won't start without it, use the least
amount of choke so that the engine idles as low as possible on
start-up (ideally 1,000 - 1,250 rpm on most motorcycles).
Some might say, the manufacturers
can't help this .... how are you supposed to start a bike,
doesn't the mixture have to be richened up when it's cold
?? My answer is: the enrichening effect of the "choke"
isn't the problem, the high idle effect is, and that's not at
all necessary for cold starting.
Since
most consumers and magazine tech writers are unaware of this
-- as far as the manufacturers are concerned, there's no
problem. The $ bottom line is: the high idle "choke" design creates an
increase in the overall sales of parts, bikes, and mechanical
work for the dealerships.
I think this high idle choke effect is still used on
newer cars, but I'm not 100% sure. Can any readers
confirm ??
Tip #3:
The fact that
bearings don't lose all of their gray coating to become
instantly shiny on start-up means that total no oil
situations are rare, since there is usually some residual
oil.
However, if you have an vehicle that has sat
for a very long time, this is likely to cause more than the
usual amount of start-up wear. I recommend turning it over
with a wrench to manually pump oil to the bearings before
such an engine is started.
(This is why race vehicles
often suffer more extreme start-up wear than street vehicles
do -- race vehicles often sit for longer periods between
start-ups !!)
Babbit
Layer Wear Does Eventually Take Place ... No Matter How The
Engine Is Broken In.
By using these 3 tips, it will take a much
longer time before start-up wear will add up to the point of
your vehicle requiring bearing replacement. Measurable wear
does eventually take place on the babbit layer after thousands
of start-ups. At the current level of engine technology, this
continues to happen regardless of the engine's
mileage. Engineering students ... can you think of any solutions
?? I'll be sharing some of my ideas in the next issue
!! .
What Does
The Paper
Towel Experiment Tell
Us ??
Think
about the other materials in an engine. If someone wanted to,
they could apply paper towel friction to chrome, steel, or
aluminum for a very long time. After doing this, their hands
would be extremely sore, and they would discover that none of
these materials can be significantly worn by
it.
By isolating and studying the one thing that
can easily be worn off by paper in less than 5 seconds,
we can see that there is a phenomenon taking place in engines
which goes beyond our normal thinking about engine wear.
(Isolating is the key to setting up a good
experiment.)
By fully studying the characteristics of
bearing design, and eliminating the variables as a good
scientist does, it's easy to see when the coating wear
takes place, and that's also the way to understand how most
engine wear occurs. There are other reasons for engine wear on
other parts, and all of these topics will be covered in future
articles.
But, in the meantime I will say this:
as long as the engine is warmed up first, there is no
damaging engine wear which happens as a result of running it
hard when it's new.
The second bearing in the
photo in this photo shows that, after a hard break-in on a new
engine, the coating is barely affected.
The 2 race engine bearings shown
in the photo are way past the 600-1,000 mile period
that the easy break-in enthusiasts might describe as
the "severe engine damage danger period", and most of their
coating is still there.
You can imagine that in
an engine with just 600-1,000 miles, the coating will still be
in nearly brand new condition after any kind of
break-in. .
Paper Towel !! . . .
The Second
Bearing From The Left Provides The Proof.
A hard break-in doesn't damage the
bearings !!
Myths Myths
are born when trusted experts use unscientific methods of
study. Myths get perpetuated when the public gives up their
thinking power to adopt a closed minded memorization of "what
everyone else thinks". Whenever there's a controversial subject, the reason for the
controversy usually stems from these 2 factors.
These are the 2 biggest problems in
modern science ... and as you'll be discovering, these
problems affect almost all of the topics of engine
tuning. For this
reason, you'll find that most of the topics in upcoming issues of
Power News will be very controversial. Plain
bearings don't require break-in, but the power of the
myth has caused millions of people to think they
do.
Teach
Others About Engines: If you
read the motorsports internet discussion forums, you've probably
noticed that the subject of engine break-in often comes up, and the
link to the Break-In Secrets article usually gets posted. The
range of opinions about it are extreme. Some strongly agree, while
most strongly disagree, but that percentage is starting to turn
around. You
can help "break the fake" about break-in !! Please post the link
to this article on your favorite forum.
Opinions
and Facts
The
difference between a fact and an opinion is very clear -- an opinion
is only that, until it is adequately proven. None of the
characteristics of bearings are presented here as an
opinion, they are all easily testable facts.
But here I
will present my opinion:
In my opinion, the method
described in Break-In Secrets could have been safely used as
long ago as ... 1969 (Maybe Even Earlier) (In no
way has this been proven here yet ... it's only my opinion. But I do
have a lot more evidence forthcoming.)
Plain Bearings
Are Easily Damaged ...
... not from a
hard break-in, but rather from incorrect installation, debris, oil
dilution from fuel*, insufficient oil
clearance, oil contamination from blow-by acids*, oil starvation, damaged (rough) crank
journal or bearing surfaces, severely overheated oil and abnormal
bearing or journal out-of-roundness which causes frictional
wear on the high spots.
* Whoops -- I just dropped 2 more hints as to why
an easy break-in is really bad for long term
reliability.
Without any of those problems, plain
bearings are very reliable !! The key
is simply to avoid all of those problems.
In the
next issue, I'm going to show my techniques for bearing
assembly, as well as some common, avoidable reasons that
bearings fail.
I'll also reveal some more of my power
secrets which helped make this situation happen:
.
Thorvald Sæby (#44) and Tommy
Hayden (#22) Daytona 2000.
In both '99 and '00, the
Factory Yamaha R6 couldn't keep up with the acceleration and
top speed of the Yamaha Motor Norway, Mototune USA built
Yamaha R6.
The Yamaha Factory Team threatened us with a
teardown both years, as they were 100% sure that our
engine was illegal for the supersport class
!!
(Especially since Thorvald is much taller, and
weighed about 35 lbs. / 16 kg. more than Tommy. That's a
huge aerodynamic and weight disadvantage on a small
bike like a 600.) .
Plus:
That "bottom line" is going to get even longer ... much
longer !!
For example: 2 Quotes from the How Long Do You
Have To Baby It article:
Point #1 Run it too hard = rings don't
seal " If you push too hard, too soon, the parts will score
and scuff each other because the heat generated will be enough to
destroy the oil film locally. A scuffed piston ring doesn't
seal. "
Point #2
Run it too easy =
rings don't seal "
... break-in will fail-- usually as a
result of such light-duty operation that parts are not loaded
together forcefully enough to bed-in to one another. Rings
glaze and fail to seal. "
(These 2 points contradict each other. Also, quote # 1
contains a cause and effect error, and if you think really deep,
you'll notice that there's a contradiction within the larger
contradiction. Hint: it's contained in quote
#2.)
The
confusion in these statements has in turn led to a tremendous amount
of confusion among the general public about the
process of ring sealing. I've noticed that there's even more confusion about ring
sealing than there is about bearings.
There are many more problems with these easy break-in articles that I
haven't mentioned yet. These will all be covered in future issues
along with the ring sealing answers. In the meantime, use the Next
Door Neighbor Reading Technique to see how many problems you can
notice !! .
What kind of epoxy are you using for porting
??
I'm happy that there are so many Power News
readers are from every part of the world !! ... except Antarctica.
I'd like to ask for your help:
Many
people have mentioned that the type of epoxy I recommended (JB
Weld), isn't available in their country.
There must
be other brands of epoxies that will work for High Velocity Porting. I want to compile a list of
epoxies which pass the long term reliability test. Please e-mail me
with the other brands of epoxies you've used, and if possible, a
report as to the long term reliability of it.
I traveled to the Netherlands to work with a
Kawasaki Supersport race team with their
ZX6R cylinder head development. In an
upcoming issue of Power News, I'll be featuring this team, plus much
more about the High
Velocity intake and exhaust porting
concepts, as well as new information that I've gathered since I
first wrote the original porting articles.
Also, I'm compiling a list of reader success
stories about the High Velocity Porting techniques featured here. If
you haven't done so already, please send in the results of your
efforts !!
" Have a
Great Day !! " ...
and thanks for all your help !!
Sincerely, Pat McGivern ~MotoMan
If You've Liked This Issue
Of
Please sign up to receive future
issues, and get
instant access to all 23 past issues !!
It's Free,
Just Enter Your E Mail Address Here:
Then Click
Here:
Hey./............ Superbikers:
Tech Questions ? Fan Mail ? Feedback ? Click Here: E-Mail MotoMan !
. l . .
Help
Support Mototune USA: Please Click Here Daily: This
Banner Leads To 100's of Other Cool Superbikes & Babes Sites !! Your " Click " Helps Drive Traffic To Mototune USA With a Vote on The Top 100 Superbike Websites
Contest !! Thanks For
All Your Help ! !