All of these
terms ring a familiar bell in the aftermarket performance industry.
A comforting one, of course. After all, these terms imply that the
product in question has proved its merit on the completely
infallible, 100% dependable and absolutely repeatable dynamometer.
Wouldn't you like to own an intake that has been "dyno proven" to
yield 15 wheel horsepower gains versus one that has been "dyno
proven" to produce a gain of a measly 10 wheel
horsepower?
Unfortunately,
the reality of the situation isn't so clear-cut. Like just about
every other device known to man, the dynamometer is a tool. And like
any tool, it can be misused or tweaked to yield the desired results.
How is this possible? Read on and check out the following cheating
techniques that run rampant in the performance aftermarket
industry:
Wimpy Stock
Technique
What better way
to make a tuned car look more impressive than make the stock car
less stout? That's right. It's easy to do. If a stock car dyno tests
between 100 and 120 wheel horsepower, it's not unusual for a tuner
to assign the lowest value to the stock baseline dyno run. Voila, an
instant 20 horsepower gain with no extra work! This technique works
exceptionally well on intercooled turbocharged cars as, depending on
intake temperatures (which can be tweaked by either the amount of
airflow over the intercooler or the cool-down time between each
run), dyno results can be all over the place! Not all tuners take
the time to stabilize intake, intercooler and coolant temperatures
before each successive dyno pull. And those that don't are presented
with many opportunities to skew the results in their favor. And even
those that do are often presented with an uncomfortably wide range
of power outputs that demands careful consideration before picking
an accurate and fair baseline. This is especially true of the more
modern turbocharged cars that have the ability, through their
sophisticated engine management computers, to actively tune and
de-tune themselves as it sees fit given the conditions
(temperatures, ambient pressures, lunar placement, etc.)
Happy Correction
Factor Trick
Just about every
engine or chassis dynamometer has the ability to display the results
with any number of applied "correction methods." SAE, DIN, STD, EEC,
etc. Each correction method represents a way to equate (for the
purpose of comparison) different dynamometer results that where
taken under different conditions (barometric level, ambient
temperature, altitude, etc.,) Even when used properly, these
correction techniques don't always represent a realistic picture.
This is because different types of engines react to conditions
changes differently. In other words, there is no one-size-fits-all
correction method.
Altitude
For example,
let's consider a dynamometer located at 5000 feet above sea level.
At such elevation, most cars suffer terribly due to the lack of air
density. As a result, their power outputs fall noticeably compared
to identical cars that operate at or near sea level. For this
reason, just about every dynamometer applies a hefty altitude
correction in the magnitude of 20% (SAE correction, in this case).
This means that a car that put down an actual 100 wheel hp is
"corrected" up to 120 wheel hp. While this correction amount is
reasonably accurate in some cases, it is notoriously optimistic in
the case of turbocharged engines. In such engines, power output
rarely falls as dramatically in response to air density reduction.
This is due to their turbo control systems that combat air density
reductions by allowing for higher boost pressures. These increased
boost pressures can almost completely offset the ambient pressure
reduction and make the "altitude correction" almost completely
unnecessary. However, I have yet to see a high-altitude tuner come
forth and not apply the positive correction factor when displaying
their grossly optimistic dyno results.
Humidity
Similar issues
arise with changes in humidity. Standard dynamometer correction
techniques apply an increasingly positive correction as humidity
rises. The idea behind this is that air density reduces as moisture
content increases. In other words, the more humid the day is, the
less power the car will make. However, as with altitude, not all
cars react to humidity changes the same way. For example, a
naturally aspirated car may behave as predicted by the smarty-pants
that derived the correction technique. But a heavily turbocharged
may behave exactly opposite to the rule. Turbocharged cars, unlike
naturally aspirated cars, often operate right up to their knock
(also known as detonation) thresholds. When humidity rises, the
extra water content in the air charge actually acts as a passive
cooler of sorts, lowering in-cylinder temperatures just enough to
allow for a few more degrees of ignition advance without the
presence of detonation. In other words, whatever engine output is
lost through the reduction in oxygen content is gained (and then
some) through a significant bump in thermal efficiency (caused by
operating with more ignition advance). Voila-another improperly
applied correction factor!
Temperature
Unfortunately,
that's not the only way to misuse correction factors. Case in point:
Temperature correction. As with altitude, increases in ambient air
temperatures almost always yield reductions in engine output.
Conversely, reductions in ambient temperature just about always
yield increases in engine output. One trick that is used by more
than a few tuners is strategic placement of the dynamometer's air
temperature sensor (which is used for correction factor
calculation). When need for lower-than-normal dyno result arises,
it's easy to place the air temperature sensor in a slightly colder
environment (out of the engine bay, in a cool shadow, on some
insulation, etc.). Similarly, when a higher-than-normal result is
needed, all one has to do is to place the sensor in a hot
environment (near the exhaust header, in a stagnant pocket of air,
in direct sunlight, etc.). Complicating the matters further is that,
yes, you guess it, not all cars respond to temperature changes the
same way. Turbocharged cars may, in fact, make less power when
ambient temperatures drop beyond a certain point. This is often
caused by lean-run conditions induced by the increase in air
density. Running with the leaner air/fuel ratios, a turbocharged car
may run into detonation, which will result in spurious knock sensor
activity. Before you know, it several degrees of ignition advance is
yanked out and power suffers measurably. This situation is not
uncommon in cars, like the WRX, that have their intake temperature
sensors placed before the turbo (in the Mass Air Flow sensor) and
not just before the throttle body. Latter placement provides a much
more accurate indication of in-cylinder air temperatures, allowing
the engine management computer to respond with proper fuel and
timing compensations.
The
Result
For this reason,
all dynamometer results provided by Vishnu Performance Systems will
be actual, as measured and "uncorrected." Since we (and our
dynamometers) are located in the San Francisco Bay Area, there is no
need for any altitude correction. Furthermore, since the dyno
facilities are in-door, testing conditions are almost always just
around room temperature. In the case where testing conditions differ
dramatically, we will disclose such information. We feel these
efforts will go a long way in ensuring that our claimed gains
translate well into real-world performance.