LEIGH

Uhmm,

Go back to my last post.

Over discussed.

Leigh

dingy

Sorry Leigh, you state one thing with no proof, then back down.

Used millers oils in the past, not as good as castrol on track, so i now only use Castrol RS.

Used to use millers until we tested it.



And NF was around

Mycroft

Leigh, sometimes postings can be interpreted in a way that totally contradicts the real intent.

Your viewpoint is as valid as anyone elses here.

(I don't even own a Skyline, yet this entire site has been courteous and allowed me to post freely, the truth is that you have more right to voice your opinion here than me!)

LEIGH

Thanks,

But everyone has a right to post on here.

Dont take it wrong, its just maybe I was miss informed.
I was just passing on information that had been given to me.

On the oil front, I always used Millers CRX 10/60 in my 300ZX (for the last year), until I sold it. It never overheated or used a drop including track days. Millers do several oils, but this is the best one.

I would also recommend everyone changes there Gearbox and diff oil. I did it on my 300ZX, and it run and felt much smoother.

It also highlighted that the diff oil seal was leaking. The level had dropped below the seal, and hence never leaked before.

Once my Skyline comes back I will get the same Millers Oils again for the engine, gearbox and diff.

Leigh

Mycroft

Cool.

nitro

LEIGH

As to the misinformed bit, maybe you were and you are not alone here.
In all my dealings with what people read and what they think they are reading or being told i have only come across 10 to 15 people that actally understand this, "POINTS,UNITS NUMBER'S and most of all RON increase's). Here im talking 3/maybe 4000 people.
Mainly in the parts and accessaries or performance outlets where they sell octane booster's they have NO idea what they are selling or what it does and 9 times out of ten are misreading the label or are reading a misleading label!!
I hope that many people have read this thread and now know how to read an octane label.

Like yourself LEIGH you quoted as saying Miller's gives 6 points increase taking it up to 103 which you now know it only takes 96 up to 96.6 how ever a greater increase is sometimes achieved and this is covered by the word "EFFECT"

Another point to make is labels often read like this;
Raise's the octane by 5 to 7 points ,units, number's etc;
SO this generally MEANS it will take 92 octane up to 92.7 and takes 96 octane up to 96.5 and as the higher starting octane you use the less increase in octane you get!!!

As for the NITROUS FORMULA !!!!! in 92 octane fuel you will get a 6 ron /octane increase 92 up to 98 and by the way there is no Bull**** here.
BUT in 96 octane fuel it will only give you 4/4.5 octane increase and in in 98 only a 3 /3.5 octane increase. In 100 octane fuel only 2/2.5 octane increase !!!
As i said hope this helps.

My last point is "YES" you can have toooo much octane in your fuel !!! every car is different so every car needs its own octane requirement!! Most std turbo cars get great results with 99 to 100
octane. Thats all you need !!

__________________
When only the BEST will do!!

dingy

Nitro, UK 95 is the same as your 92



Just so people get it

stu_allen

Great thread folks, reading it with interest. Keep it up! Oh, and would be intregued if theres any difference with the higher calorific value fuels...

tim at svs

How refreshing to read such an interesting post/thread especially in comparison to most of what seems to be here these days. Now, to the point of my contribution (?)Seems to me that the octane levels of our UK pump fuels are largely enhanced by benzine ? What by comparison does anyone know about how Japan derive their octane levels ? Apart from anything else, I remember a UK tv programme from a few years back suggesting that the benzine levels present in our unleaded fuels (I seem to remember benzine hadnt been used in leaded) were virtually proven in the States to promote leukaemia (sorry cant spell)meaning that super unleaded users were rather more vulnerable to this. Not that this has much to do with the subject, but it may interest some of us ! America had responded to this problem by installing a bellows/extractor system onto the nozzle of each fuel pump, reducing the inhalation risks. Something we in this country have never done to my knowledge. So, knowing Japan have the best available pump fuel (100 octane ?) how is this achieved, is the basis of my humble inquiry.
I only ask, because I did spend considerable amounts of time trying to reduce detonation present in a dinosaur-like Nascar Ford road homologation car, albeit around 4 years ago. I tried all varieties of pump fuel, and octane booster. The best booster I came up with at that time was an American product called 104+ (again from memory sorry). That was half decent, but all were frankly relatively inneffective (actually useless is a better word). The only cure I found, after altering the cam (it only had one !), cam timing, distributor advance curve, was finally to buy a 55 gallon drum of VP racing 105 octane 'VP red'. The cure was instant. When I neared the bottom of the can, I sold the car ! This took me nearly two years mind you, and I found no noticeable change in performance after leaving the car static throughout the winter each year. This in itself concerns me somewhat regarding what Mycroft tells us about Opti*ax, because I for one have a habit of leaving my car standing for 2 or 3 weeks at a time, before going for a 'spin'. What if any of our pump Super doesn't degrade with time ? Being as how I would rather go for a spin than a knock !
Oh, and as a final teaser, in those dim and distant days, some engine builders had found that power levels could be maintained with lousy 'pump' fuels by raising rather than reducing compression levels but in turn increasing valve overlap between intake and exhaust events, thus reducing compression pressure not compression ratio. Has anyone tried this with a turbo engine, or RB26 ? Only I like the idea of a responsive off-boost engine that still has plenty of power when on boost. Seems the only route to maintain that is to keep compression levels up, which in turn would appear to be tempting det/pre-ignition. Once again though, thanks Mycroft et al for some interesting reading, always nice to learn.

__________________
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resellers of Alcon brakes, ATI bolt on RB26 dampers,Exedy clutch kits, Momo products,genuine Nissan parts, OS Giken clutch and gearkits. Splitfire Japan coil packs for RB engines. Suppliers to many of the Uk tuners !
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most recently by Rising Sun Richard and Uncle Ike

nitro

TIM AT SVS
HMMM some good points and questions.
I can specificly answer the one about the 104 plus you were talking about.
YES the 104 plus WAS the best octane booster avaiable up untill 1996/97 it was very very good.
Gold Eagle purchased the NAME, LABEL and the Bottle but not the formula a lady still owns the formula.
It now contains ferosene this may interest the person that was talking about "IRON" as an additive and the first 2 lines of the instructions reads as follows
Rasies the octane effect by 5 to 7 points!! so go back and read my last post about this.
It has been independantly tested and IT did give this result in prem 96 fuel.
The RED bottle infact reduced the octane level by 0.5 so be carefull!!!
I also have to agree about the cam shaft timing so much to be learnt in this area but not much work done ????

__________________
When only the BEST will do!!

Tinduck Racing

...still the most impressive thread this side of the Hemisphere....

.....watching in anticipation........

Take care Skyliners,

Jon.

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Take care,
JonB

somberg

Once more we have to come to the conclusion that what one really needs, is a reliable measurement tool that detects the quality of the ignition and burning process. And I mean something reliable throughout the whole RPM range. Until that time, you can make mixtures with or without OB's and whatnot but you'll simply not be able to research various options, which is what we are all talking about here.

Andre.

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Bananaman..

SimonEvo Xtreme

Hi, Mycroft, finally found my way over from the MLR. Great thread but you posed a question I am not sure was answered. "Should we be using the fuel with the highest CV?"

I have used Optimax religiously in my car but, very occasionally, I have not been able to get it and have used SUL. I notice a difference in the responce of the car (worse), but on one occasion I filled up with Total I didn't. I thought it was just my imagination or that the weather had cooled down. Having read your comments, I now wonder what the reason is. Should I be switching my fuel of choice to Total?

Many thanks

Mycroft

TOTAL/FINA/ELF produce the highest CV of all the fuels in the UK, that I can confirm today, what you experienced may be the 'sufficient' effect, if you drive your car for a while you get used to a way it performsand you actually ignore the foot work and gain the same momentum for less pedal travel, what you actually encounter is 'efficiency' the higher the CV the better the conversion into motion the less you need to force that pedal down.