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Installing the basic system to an LET
Tapping a hole for the water injector. The kit comes with 3 different (colour-coded) injectors of 0.5, 0.6, and 0.7mm. Swapping to a different one gives a degree of fine-tuning.
Here is the hole from the inside, after the threads have been tapped. Got to have a steady hand, or else...
This is the injector protruding on the inside. It has a 90-degree spray pattern. This one will be facing the open throttle valve - an ideal location for in-cylinder cooling.
The injector fitted, as seen from the outside. The hole should be chamfered slightly, just where the O-ring will sit. We don't need pressure leaks. This location also clears the plastic 'turbo' cover.
This is the pump. It has to be close to the battery (to keep the high-amp wires short), away from heat sources and vibrations and also able to breathe and lose it's heat (not in enclosed spaces, like the plastic relay box). It's also best kept away from the firewall because it's very noisy and vibrates a lot while in use. It should also be close to the water tank, and no more than 50cm over the bottom of the water pickup point (the pump is good at pushing water, but not sucking it in)
Here is an interesting location:
Quite low and in direct airflow, quite useful if it's going to be operating a lot.
This one fits right next to the battery, quite convenient location for operation and maintenance.
This is the pressure switch. Beware, it can be easily affected by heat, so it has to be away from heat sources (radiators, engine block etc)
Views of the engine bay with the whole system in place:
It's very important to remember that these pumps can only tolerate water and a water/methanol mix of up to 50%. Assume that anything else will damage the pump, except if the manufacturer says otherwise.
During the setup, the need arises to tap into a switched ignition wire. Thanks to Andy Kirwan, we know that the nearest one is the reversing lights wire, black/yellow going from the gearbox to the round adaptor next to the battery.
The pressure switch comes preset at the factory at 10psi - but don't trust this, mine was set at 1bar.
Turning the screw counterclockwise lowers the boost level required to trigger the pump. Turn it clockwise to increase it.
Sensitivity of adjustment: 90degrees turn of the screw equate to about 3-4psi
You can easily install an LED in the cabin to light up whenever the WI operates. Any medium-sized LED should do, just make sure it will handle 12 volts (I learned the hard way, burning a couple of small ones - all in the name of science!). The LED will just be connected across the pressure switch terminals, no resistors needed.
Of course the LED will just indicate that the pressure switch has been triggered - if your nozzle is blocked, the LED will still shine, even though no water is injected.If you want to operate the pump for test purposes, just disconnect one of the connections of the pressure switch and and turn on the car's ignition. It won't run at full voltage (13.8V) but you'll get the picture.
