  |
|||
 |
|||
|
|
Swapping the injectors is a straightforward job. You only need a screwdriver, a 10mm socket and some patience.
You also need a set of new injectors, with impedance not far off the one of the old ones. Ideally it should be identical, but the ECU can adapt +/- 1.5 Ohms. I don't know if it can handle injectors with impedance difference more than that, because that is as far as I have experimented. If you are hell-bent in using something 'exotic' then you're better off going for a programmable management system that can adapt to any injector impedance and style (peak and hold vs saturation). Motronic can handle high-impedance, saturation-type of injectors. If you try to use low impedance injectors then the current draw will be far more than it should and the drivers may be damaged.
Now let's get our hands dirty...
It's a good practice to use new O-rings. You may want to use a bit of dielectric grease on the 8 O-rings, so that they slip into place more easily, but that's not mandatory.
|
|
First step is to disconnect the battery's negative. This is important, as the ECU will have to learn how to pulse the new injectors. |
| Next disconnect the two breather pipes at the back of the camcover. It's a good time to check if they are full of crud and get them cleaned. |  |
|
Now undo the two 10mm bolts that keep the throttle cable mount into place.
|
 |
There is no need to undo the throttle cable completely, just keep the whole assembly back. My favourite way is a short bungee cord, attached to the lower part of the windscreen wiper. |
|
Relieve the pressure in the fuel rail, if the engine has run in the last 24 hours. We do this by undoing the plastic cover of the 'schraeder valve' and pressing the middle pin with something. Be careful, fuel will squirt out, so have the place surrounded with clean rags. Keep your face out of the line of fire, too. |
 |
|
Undo the two 10mm fuel rail mounting studs, one on each side. First round: undo the earthing spades (one on driver's side, two on passenger side) Second round: undo the whole stud and place it in a container full of degreaser, along with everything else that comes off. |
 |
 |
Now the whole fuel rail can be pulled back, exposing the injectors. |
| Electric plug clips highlighted: |  |
| A clip from an electric plug being undone. Grasp them firmly, or else their spring action can fly them away into engine crevices dark and unfriendly. |  |
|
|
A fuel rail mounting clip. Be very careful not to drop them, and how they should be fitted back again. If you feel that there is not enough clearance to see what's happening, undo more things so that you have enough space to work properly. Use a small torch if you need to. |
|
This is the injector of cyl #1 free at last. Note the badly fitted mounting clips of injectors #2 and #3. Whoever had fitted them felt the 'click' alright, but the injectors were loose because they didn't clip to the rest of the rail |
 |
|
These two injectors came out with broken pintle caps. No wonder, since their clips were not attached to the fuel rail, so they leaked fuel and vibrated themselves to death.
|
 |
Some of the broken pieces of the pintle caps were never found (no prizes for guesses as to where they ended...) |
Back to Fuelling...